Mr2en er en god bil uten spesielt mye rust. Den gamle mk1 mr2en var preget av mye rust, men mk2en (den du ser på) pleier ofte ikke å være preget noe spesielt med rust.
De setene som mangler i mr2en gjør kjøregleden opp for
La ved en kjøper guide til deg på engelsk
Enthusiast Buying Guide
Toyota MR2
1991-1995
By Dan Barnes
By the late 1980s, the first Toyota MR2 was struggling to find buyers. A strengthening yen was causing prices to rise and insurance rates for the two-seat sports car were out of control. In addition, the competition was catching up. The new CRX Si was faster, more practical and more economical. Even the supercharged MR2 was in a no-man’s land between affordability and having the speed to run with bigger GTs. The MR2 was looking less and less like a good business plan.
But Toyota still built a new one, following the insurance premiums upward with a larger, faster and more expensive car. The first-generation 1989 models stayed in showrooms until mid-1990, when the new cars were brought in as 1991 models. The second generation lasted until 1995.
Today, a good second-gen. MR2 is one of the best buys on the used sport compact car market. The car is still great looking, and with a little help from the aftermarket, it can be a real giant killer.
BODY
To add interior space, the MR2 MkII was 8.7-inches longer, 1.3-inches wider, 0.2-inches higher, and had a 3.2-inch longer wheelbase than the car it replaced. The penalty paid for this size increase was weight; a nonturbo car weighs about 200 pounds more than a naturally aspirated MkI, and the Turbo tips the scales still 200 pounds beyond that.
Of course, the options list could affect this significantly, but since the Turbo was a premium model, it’s difficult to find one without heavy extras such as T-tops.
One major improvement was in aerodynamics, however, with the coefficient of drag falling from 0.36 on the MkI, or 0.35 with the spoiler, to 0.31.
CHASSIS
The MR2 was straightforward, building on the MkI with MacPherson struts all around. One technical highlight was optional electro-hydraulic power steering, with just 3.1 turns lock-to-lock vs. 3.7 for the manual rack. The system avoided the extra weight of long hydraulic lines and their potential for leaks by using an electric pump at the front of the car.
Not all was perfect, however. Under hard cornering, the rear wheels would toe out, causing difficult-to-control oversteer. Because of this, the rear suspension’s lateral links were lengthened by 98mm and the rear trailing arms’ attachment points were raised 3mm in 1993. This corrected the toe out, and reduced squat under acceleration and dive under braking. The modifications are compatible for retro-fitting, and the required changes are well documented on the Web.
Bigger brakes were also introduced on the Turbo in 1993, as were 15-inch wheels (6-inches wide in front and 7-inches wide in the rear) with 195/55-15 and 225/50-15 tires. Other minor changes included upgrades to the electrical system, all of which makes the 1993-and-later vehicles significantly more desirable.
Trim changes in 1994 include restyled taillights (a common retrofit to older models), and Turbos received two-piston front brake calipers by 1995.
DRIVETRAIN
The new turbocharged 3S-GTE engine made 200 hp at 6000 rpm and impressive low-end power, with 200 lb-ft of torque at only 3200 rpm. With bore and stroke identical at 86mm, it featured an iron block, aluminum head, and forged crank and rods.
The 5S-FE in the naturally aspirated cars was a long-stroke version of the same engine with 166cc more displacement, but had a restrictive cylinder head design and was tuned for torque, redlining at 6300 rpm instead of 7000 rpm like the Turbo.
These engines and the transmissions attached to them were the only major component the new car shared with any other Toyota model. Manual transmissions were five-speeds, with an optional four-speed automatic available only on nonturbo cars.
TUNING
Nonturbo MkIIs show better results in SCCA autocross, but the Turbo is the better car for the street. It starts out with a lot more power and increasing its output is a simple matter of turning up the boost--at first.
As output rises, several hardware changes become important. The stock intake manifold tends to put more air into cylinder three than the others, causing it to run leaner and eventually fail, usually at about 350 hp. The aerodynamic design of factory Toyota turbos pales next to modern turbos such as Garret’s dual-ball-bearing GT series.
Finally, the Bosch L-Jetronic-derived flapper-box airflow meter is both inherently restrictive and limited to its measurement range. The mechanical integrity of the long block would seem to be as good as any other Japanese turbo 2.0-liter, once the faults of the ancillaries are corrected.
Some may find it easier or faster to build their version of the perfect raw material than to buy it, though it will almost certainly be more expensive. A rear clip from a later JDM turbo car includes the more powerful engine as well as the revised suspension and larger rear brakes. Legality and wiring are usually up to the owner, but shops such as Toysport (
http://www.toysport.com) and E.L. Prototypes (
http://www.Elprototypes.com) are experienced and can at least make the mechanical part of the conversion a turnkey experience.
If you’re serious about making an MR2 handle well, either buy a 1993-or-later car or plan on changing the rear suspension. The Internet is full of opinions on how to make the MkII handle. The most trustworthy information is from successful autocrossers such as Randy Chase, but is oriented toward the SCCA’s stock-class rules, so it ignores changes as basic and important as spring rates.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
MR2s are basically bulletproof. Hardly anything major goes wrong with these cars, especially the naturally aspirated ones, unless they’ve been modified, abused or neglected. However, there are a few potential problem areas.
The most expensive trouble spot on an otherwise healthy Turbo is the turbocharger itself. Toyota charges enough for a new one that nobody would bother. Rebuilding the stock turbo, typically every 65,000-80,000 miles, costs about $500. Upgrading the Toyota unit is expensive enough to justify switching to a new, more modern design. The airflow sensor may also go bad, often causing problems only intermittently, and typically costs $600.
On T-top cars especially, check the interior carefully for signs of water damage from leaking window seals. The parking brake cables have rubber dust boots at the caliper ends that are usually rotted. Water can enter these and freeze, locking the parking brake on. Some people drive on regardless, with ugly results.
Beyond these points, inspect the car thoroughly. Be certain every electrical item functions, all the levers unlatch their openings and that all trim is present and in good condition. Toyota parts that are not standard service items can be expensive. Get underneath the car and check for bends from accidents or scrapes from possible off-road excursions. In the absence of poor accident repairs, corrosion is unlikely to be a problem except in the saltiest of winter states.
men en vær har jo sin smak. neste gang jeg kjøper meg toyota blir det supra håper vertfall på det 